If the Pučić Palace is the old money headline grabbing restaurant in Dubrovnik, then Lairint is the nouveau riche option. If benefits from a prime location just inside the old town walls by their main entrance i.e. everyone who walks into the old town walks past Lairint, there is no avoiding it (their marketing literature, flyers and such like are full of flowery descriptions of unavoidable views, unavoidable nightclub and unavoidable signature dishes etc. I think they meant un-missable and something got lost in translation). The name is appropriate, it is best described as a medieval “complex” and is arranged, rather fussily, over three levels again, as with everything in Dubrovnik, carved out of the rock face. Dining rooms, terraces and night club all lurk in the maze. Unlike the Pučić Palace, the service is not good, they tend to practise a combination of ignoring you or forgetting about you. That said, unlike some fellow tourists, we managed to get a table. As promised the view over the sea, sun setting on the town and coast line is stunning (or should that be unavoidable), just don’t look down into the boat repair yard and next door’s bins below.Starters of local fish pate and melba toasts come complimentary which is a nice touch. Main courses are arranged in a multiple choice fashion on the menu which is a bit like being in school: choose A) for pepper sauce or B) for red wine sauce etc. Far too officious. I opted for some langoustines in champagne and to be honest the Gradska Kavana take on this version is streets ahead and about a third cheaper.
Strangely though there appears to be three grades of waiter; those in red waistcoats, those in black t-shirts and those with stripy comedy French t-shirts and head scarves in a pirate type fashion. Now what’s all that about then?
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