Gradska Kavana, Pred Dvorom, Dubrovnik

People watching is a bit of a Croat national sport. Pavement cafes abound, Café Orlando is a good place to park up on the Stradun as is Bar Hemingway. At nights the action centres round Buniceva Poljana and the Troubadur Hard Jazz Café and the numerous surrounding bars and cafes.

However, Gradska Skavana, or strangely enough, the Arsenal Tavern as it’s otherwise known, is the ultimate Űber-bar and people watching spot. If it was located in Central London on the banks of the Thames there would be no change out of twenty notes for a couple of drinks and the place would be overrun with WAGS. However, thankfully, it isn’t, it is actually located right on Dubrovnik’s harbour with a huge restaurant terrace. Seafood is the obvious menu choice. If you sit there for long enough you’ll see you dinner arrive from a boat. The langoustines are served simply steamed on a bed of salad drizzled with oil. Surprisingly, a good steak can also be had.

Inside lurks a huge cavernous bar and restuarant with a nautical theme (ever-so-slightly-cheesy), fish tanks, stage and table service so you never have to move should you be of lazy disposition. Every other night there is a local band that play Croatian folk and pop and the odd serviceable western cover (hang around long enough and it ends up a bit like a wedding reception).

To the rear of the building there is another stunningly decorated bar, patisserie and terrace. This is the ultimate posing and people watching point. Elevated above ground level we managed to observe two weddings and the opening ceremony of the World Model Ship Building Championships (don’t ask). The coffee is excellent served in bone chine, glass and steel efforts with a shot glass of water. Most continental.